There’s no greater adventure than backpacking to unknown places.

In March of 2021, we backpacked for a week in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. The route we chose drops in and comes out at “crack-in-the-wall” and heads up Coyote Gulch, cutting out and heading overland to Fools Canyon. The route was an out-and-back. It would be about 36 miles roundtrip.

The night before we left, Boulder, CO received about 2 feet of snow. We were excited to head down to sunnier climes. However, the snow wasn’t done with us just yet. This was the scene driving down Hole in the Rock road to get to the trailhead. I was a little nervous that this was foretelling of our week in Escalante.

After a 45 mile drive down a very washboarded, sandy road, we arrived at the trail head and wouldn’t you know it, the sun came out!

We packed up and headed overland straight toward the canyon. It’s about 3 miles to get to what they call crack-in-the-wall at the edge of the canyon. Going overland is a mix of sand and slickrock. It was fairly easy walking. Just need to follow your GPS track to make sure you end up at the right spot.

Going through the crack is a little weird and claustrophobic, but pretty short. You can see the cuts in the stone from people lowering their packs down with ropes. Your pack will not fit through the crack, so bring a small rope.

Once through, the canyon begins to come into view and you get the real feel for what Escalante is. Red sandstone, lots of domes, lots of winding gulches and canyons.

We made our way to the floor of Coyote Gulch, across the stream, and up the other side to a high point where we pitched our tent. We had fantastic views of the area, including Steven’s arch, along with a great sunset.

“Without new experiences, something inside of us sleeps. The sleeper must awaken.” – Frank Herbert

In the morning, we had a nice breakfast, packed up, and headed back down to the creek. This day, and this hike actually, would have us walking back and forth across and through the creek several times. It helps to have neoprene socks to keep your feet a bit warmer and dryer.

We camped at the high area, last place in the sun to the right and traversed back across the side hill and down to the creek.

Words cannot describe just how beautiful Coyote Gulch is. Scenery at every turn. I highly recommend it, though it likely won’t have the solitude you are looking for.

The pictures really speak for themselves. It was a glorious day of wandering upstream, back and forth in the warm sun. We soon reached the famous Jacob Hamblin arch. It was huge!

We soon reached the famous Jacob Hamblin arch. It was huge!

“Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit, and as vital to our lives as water and good bread.” – Edward Abbey

Toward the end of the prior day, we passed Hurricane gulch and went about another mile before camping along a nice flat spot on the creek. This was the start to our preparing to head overland. This morning was yet another sunny morning and we were back to walking up the creek. We crossed back and forth as the sun rose higher, then turned off on a small tributary. Soon, we were bushwhacking through tight brush. It may have only lasted a 1/4 mile or so before it was time to leave the water altogether. At this point, it was time to get up on the slickrock and head over to Fools Canyon.

How you get up onto the slickrock is another story. An old log is precariously placed on some small rocks. Using the log, the knots, the sandstone wall, whatever you can, you carefully climb up.

Lenny had brought a rope which helped, but they don’t call it slickrock for nothing. Even roped up, it was a little scary. I got up, then we scrambled up some additional steepness and settled down for breakfast, enjoying the view.

Next up – 4 miles of slickrock moguls. Like sand dunes frozen in time. It went on forever. You just had to make sure you went up the right one. Otherwise, it was back down, over, and up another.

Lots of interesting sights along the way. In the late afternoon, we reached the top of Fools Canyon. The view was phenomenal! Now it was just a matter of getting down!

Carefully, you traverse narrow ledges, climb down drops, and negotiate nearly non-existent trails on a very steep side hill at last, you reach the bottom.

“Hiking is not escapism; it’s realism. The people who choose to spend time outdoors are not running away from anything; we are returning to where we belong.” – Jennifer Pharr Davis

It was so nice to feel the warm sun in March, especially after the snowstorm we had left behind. We couldn’t have asked for better weather.

Enjoying the warm sun.

It’s really quite something to have your very own canyon. Not a soul within miles! We made camp and enjoyed a rest day the next day. We used our rest day to wander and explore Fools Canyon.

Exploring and resting

There’s a whole world out there, right outside your window. You’d be a fool to miss it. – Charlotte Eriksson

Sadly, it was time to go. We hiked back up the 600+ feet to the slickrock and began the long journey overland. It would be a two-day trip back to the car.

The return route follows the same route we took in. Even so, we continued to find interesting things and see new sights.

Lots of slickrock but very cool fist-sized marbles.

As before, we climbed back down off the slickrock to the side canyon creek. It was still a little scary. Again, we bushwhacked through the bushes, found our way back to Coyote Gulch, and made a nice camp on the creek bank. We even saw two Bighorn Sheep staring down at us from the top of the rim.

“Now I see the secret of making the best person, it is to grow in the open air and to eat and sleep with the earth.” – Walt Whitman

Back down the creek we went, back to our first night’s campsite. Once again, it was beautiful, though being a weekend, it was much more crowded. We missed the solitude.

It’s just as beautiful on the way back.

“There are a lot of stories out there, waiting for you to live them” – Unknown

Once again, we were at our most beautiful campsite. Perched high up with a view down at the Escalante river, across to Steven’s Arch, and surrounded by flame-colored sandstone walls.

Looking down on the Escalante river and up to Steven’s Arch

We packed up and headed down to the creek, where we dropped our packs, stopped for breakfast, then took a quick side trip to the river.

After a refreshing rest at the river, it was time to head back.

Final few miles

Although Coyote Gulch was my first and only Escalante trek so far, it’s certainly one of the most iconic canyons in the entire Escalante. I highly recommend it.

“The moments you have experienced are the only possession that nobody can take away from you.” – Unknown

#goplayoutside