“You cannot see the Grand Canyon in one view, as if it were a changeless spectacle from which a curtain might be lifted, but to see it you have to toil from month to month through its labyrinths.” — John Wesley Powell 

Having chosen another “George Steck Loop Hike” Lenny took myself, his daughter Misa and boyfriend Kyle on a 10-day trek we’d never forget. There is no trail for this trek. Just written directions and a map with a suggested route.

We were up early to catch the first bus to the South Kaibab trail in time for sunrise. Unfortunately, due to COVID, only one bus was running loading only 15 people at a time. Even though we were at the station almost an hour ahead of time, it took us another hour to finally get on the bus.

Our excitement was palpable – or was it nerves? I think naivety and not knowing what is in front of you is sometimes better. Certainly was for me in this case. We finally hopped on the bus with smiles and anticipation. In short order, we were headed down the South Kaibab trail. My pack weighing 45lbs and Lenny’s about 65lbs.

Once at Phantom Ranch, you leave the wonderful trail behind – along with the crowds. However, this is where the work begins. You scramble straight up the side of the hill, taking care not to slip. I guess this is the part that starts to expose you to exposure. Going up is generally better than coming down and there were only a couple places where one would feel pretty exposed.

Another gorgeous morning as we headed north along Utah flats. There actually was a bit of a trail as some make a loop with Phantom Creek canyon and Utah flats. After a couple miles meandering along, we came to the sharp right turn that led straight down the hill to Phantom Creek. We carefully navigated the slippery, steep trail that dropped 600ft down to the creek. Once there, it was paradise!

After a lovely break, we packed up and headed up creek. Travel was quite uneventful. Just taking in the beauty of the Grand Canyon, trying to commit the experience to memory, so far.

“It’s like trying to describe what you feel when you’re standing on the rim of the Grand Canyon or remembering your first love or the birth of your child. You have to be there to really know what it’s like.” — Harrison Schmitt

The day began with some bushwhacking, scrambling, and a stop at the “Hippie Camp.” Apparently, some years ago, a group of “hippies” camped out here illegally. They had done some improvements but, mostly what is left are some artifacts and some stone-lined paths. From here, you leave Phantom Creek and hang a left.

Here’s where things start to get scary if you have any kind of fear of heights (as I do). You need to climb up an 80ft wall! But first, you hike up a very steep side hill about 400ft. Once at the top of the side hill, Lenny took my pack and climbed “free solo.” At the top, he strung a “hip belay” and tossed the rope down. One by one, we each climbed up and, not without serious trepidation on my part!

Start of the 80ft wall that is broken into two sections. Seriously scary!

“Crying. Acceptable at funerals and the Grand Canyon” — Ron Swanson from Parks and Recreation

You would think you could breathe a big sigh of relief at the top. But the fun wasn’t over yet! Now we shimmied across the side of the wall and reached a section where the “floor” had dropped out. We had to cling to the wall as we stepped over the gap, trying not to think about the 500ft drop below you. I think that was almost more scary than the climb! From there, it was an afternoon, early evening of more bushwhacking, hiking up steep hills and along cliff edges till we got to the final gully. Then, it was a steep climb up to Shiva saddle, where I could now finally let out a sigh of relief!

Morning of day four and we “just” had to hike down the hill to the canyon floor. While that sounded like child-play compared to the day before, it was no picnic! The hill down got steeper and more brushy. It meant holding on to trees, bushes, and whatever to keep from sliding down. While it was work, it wasn’t nearly as scary.

Once at the bottom of the canyon, it became a most pleasurable hike! Boulder hopping, strolling, wildflowers, and relief. After about a mile, this small but steep canyon joins Dragon Creek. Dragon Creek was like a superhighway! Gone are the brush and boulders. Just a nice, wide, flat, dry creek bed. We made fantastic time and were looking forward to camping at Dragon Springs.

Dragon Springs. It was like Baltic Avenue. After reaching the chock stone section in Dragon Creek, you must hike up, over, and back down the side hill. Although the chock stone was amazing, the accommodations were not. Fresh water, but that meant thick brush, bugs and wet ground. We bushwhacked through to a small area that took some time to clear a tiny spot for our tent. We called it a night.

Hike goes left and along the side hill before dropping back down to the creek bed. Once in, it’s a short walk back up to see the chockstone.

The day started with two miles of the most serious bushwhacking I’ve ever done. That also meant TICKS!! Gross! I ended up with two of them that day. Eeesh. By the end of the trip, I’d counted five.

“If there is a point to being in the canyon, it is not to rush but to linger, suspended in a blue-and-amber haze of in-between-ness, for as long as one possibly can. To float, to drift, savoring the pulse of the river on its odyssey through the canyon, and above all, to postpone the unwelcome and distinctly unpleasant moment when one is forced to reemerge and reenter the world beyond the rim-that is the paramount goal.” ― Kevin Fedarko

This day was our one and only day off. And, what a great spot. The morning brought a short visitation by boaters who stopped to get a look at the rapids before heading over. I think the guides show the boaters the rapids for some extra anticipation and excitement. They didn’t stay long and were soon squealing down the river.

Mornings always came early. Except for the day off, alarms were always set for 5:30 or 6am. It was a requirement. Even though the mileage wasn’t that long, they days certainly were. There were miles and then there were “Steck” miles – measured in hours really. So, once again, off we went.

It was a grind getting to the top of the hill and slightly scary. The hill was so steep that you almost felt you could tip backwards. But after a couple hours, we finally made it to the top.

Every morning, we got up, packed, and began hiking before breakfast. Then we’d find a nice place to rest and eat. Typically, I eat first thing in the morning but this seemed to work out well. Plus, you were able to get some mileage behind you.

Now began a long day of what Steck calls, “just contouring around.” It’s funny. You can see across these side canyons – practically jump across (well not really). But you have to go all the way around. But, I must say, it was really nice wandering along the Tonto level. The sights were gorgeous.

The question always became, “How high up do you contour around?” Stay low and it adds a lot of extra miles. Go high, over the shoulder, it’s shorter but gets really steep. We mostly stayed middle to high.

It was a long day “just contouring around” the Tonto. But, eventually, we found our way down the steep rocky slope down to 94 Mile creek. It was getting late and the sun was setting. Once at the creek bottom, we thought we were almost there but it was still a couple miles and we got there just at dark.

Up and at it yet again. I would have loved to have been able to spend more time at each of these camp sites. It seemed we rolled in at or near dark, set up camp, had dinner, and went to bed, only to get up again just before sunrise. Though, on a long trek like this, it would be nearly impossible to bring enough food to have more rest days.

Leaving 94 mile creek, one needs to take note of where the real route is. We lost about an hour thinking it was along the river. But, it died out at the sandbar you see on the left side. After backtracking, we did find it and are on it now.

Getting to the top of the Tonto this time was beautiful with one last scary bit to climb over the top to get out. After enjoying breakfast, we continued up the gully. Even found what we believe to be a Native American granary.

Back on the Tonto, we carried on. This time, dancing carefully on a cactus carpet. It was slow going as you had to carefully place each step!

Later in the day, we had our first change in weather. It seemed like a storm was brewing and we were only a little more than half way there. The day before, we had decided to change our plans due to water availability. Seeing that there was no pot hole water on our first night, that meant no water on our last night. A dry camp on our second-to-last night would have meant dry camps on both night 8 AND 9. That’s nearly impossible to do, so we rerouted our plan to head back to Phantom Creek. However, it meant an extremely long day 8.

We experienced only a brief sprinkle before heading down into and across Trinity canyon. It’s a dry, rocky canyon. Somewhat steep to get into and, a fairly decent trek down for a short ways, before taking a hard left on a side canyon. We spooked a couple deer who had to be wondering what we were doing there. Another 30 minutes and we cut out, hiking hard back up to the Tonto layer again.

We have to go where? After reaching the Tonto layer, Lenny pointed up to the red rocks on the right horizon. What? Really?? For context, each boulder in the foreground of the picture above is about as big as a person. We slowly and carefully made our way up to the top. We had originally planned to exit our loop without this hill, but our reroute sent us up this crazy side hill. The day was wearing thin.

The sun was setting and we were still far from Phantom Creek. We talked as a group about our options and decided it was best to stay right here rather than risk heading into the unknown in the dark. It was a great decision, though we had run out of water, except for one small cup of broth. Fortunately, we knew it was only a couple hours the next morning to Phantom Creek where we would find water again.

“The really wonderful moments of joy in this world are not the moments of self-satisfaction, but self-forgetfulness. Standing on the edge of the Grand Canyon and contemplating your own greatness is pathological. At such moments we are made for a magnificent joy that comes from outside ourselves.” — John Piper

We were up and going early again, following somewhat of an animal trail that seemed to come and go. We rounded the corner and saw a big wall in the distance. I wondered to myself how we were going to get up there but, just went with the flow and assumed we’d figure it out as we got closer.

The views again were phenomenal. I think the canyon shows off best at sunrise and sunset. It makes the yellows, oranges, and reds just pop.

We savored the views but didn’t stay too long. We were getting hungry and thirsty and still had about 45 minutes and at least 1,000 ft to get down to Phantom Creek for breakfast. It was a relief to follow a bit of trail before it died out again, but soon we were at the Phantom Creek/Utah Flats trail junction. We dropped our packs, taking only a few things for our breakfast and headed back down to the familiar spot on Phantom Creek.

Phantom Creek was divine! The sun was warm. We filled our bellies and rested to the sound of trickling water. Paradise for sure. We spent half the day here, knowing it was only a couple miles to our next and last camp site. I could have stayed there forever!

As we easily trekked back across Utah Flats, we each silently pondered our journey. The end was nearing and we were filled with memories. Hard things, scary things, beautiful things, creepy things, funny things, and just the gratitude for being able to have this kind of experience.

That night, we sat on the edge, looking over at the Bright Angel trail. We could see a trail of headlamps heading up. We thought of them as the lost souls. Lenny mentioned on a prior hike down Bright Angel at night, for every one person he passed with a headlamp, there were three without! We had a good laugh about that.

“Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it.” -Theodore Roosevelt

There was a part of me that didn’t want to leave. It was such an amazing experience to be 10 days without contact to the outside world. Just nature. Things as they were for a millennia. Sheer beauty everywhere.

But, there was also a part of me that was anxious for a shower and a real bed. Desperate for a Diet Coke and tacos. Happy it appeared we’ll make it out alive!

Although the trek down to Phantom Ranch from our campsite was treacherous, we made it and were happy to be back on “solid ground.” Lenny and I rested our feet in Bright Angel creek while Kyle and Misa headed on.

The trek up Bright Angel trail was surprisingly easy and quick. Our packs weighed only half what they did when we went down, maybe less. We were like horses to the barn. Focused and getting it done.

I hope at least once in your life you do something that excites you but also scares you. You are much stronger than you could ever know.

“He meant the Grand Canyon was only a mood of nature, a bold promise, a beautiful record. He meant that mountains had sifted away in its dust, yet the canyon was young. Man was nothing, so let him be humble. This cataclysm of the earth, this playground of a river was not inscrutable; it was only inevitable—as inevitable as nature herself. Millions of years in the bygone ages it had lain serene under a half moon; it would bask silent under a rayless sun, in the onward edge of time.” ― Zane Grey

#goplayoutside

#dosomethingepic